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This article gives an overview of GMT-style watches and whether they are suitable for you. There are many alternatives to the Rolex GMT master, so you do not need to spend thousands of dollars. In fact, there are many GMT variations that cost well under $500.
Whilst a Rolex GMT master is a luxury way of tracking 2 timezones, there are both mechanical and quartz variations which will suit your needs for far less than a 5-figure pricetag.
Table of Contents
A History Of GMT Watches
The first GMT watch was made in 1953 by Glycine. Before international travel had become mainstream, there was little need for a watch that tracked multiple timezones at once. However, after the boom in aviation began, there was a rush for watches that were able to do this, specifically for pilots.
In terms of functionality, the Glycine Airman did exactly what it was meant to do. It had a rotating 24 hour bezel and also a very busy dial with all 24 hours located around the dial – rather than the standard 12.
The original watch that looks most like the GMT master of today is of course the original Rolex GMT. This watch is visually not too different from the prototype watch released in 1954 on the instructions of Pan American Airlines. This has caused some debate about who created the first GMT watch. Glycine obviously created the first GMT. However, Rolex clearly created the watch which is still an iconic design up to this day.
It should also be noted that the Tissot Navigator was a multi-time zone watch which was made both before the Rolex GMT and the Glycine Airman. So the idea of making a watch like this was not new.
Fast forward to modern day and the most recognizable GMT watch is of course the Rolex GMT Master II. This is an extremely popular watch and can very rarely be acquired brand new, due to its massive popularity. Not only this, but it is an expensive watch that costs thousands of dollars.
Are GMT Watches Useful?
GMT watches are somewhat useful if you actually need one for your job or any other purpose. Obviously knowing the time in another country cannot be a bad thing – but it can be a useless thing.
If we think of modern-day watches, they are not as useful as we would like to imagine. Due to the invention of personal computers, phones, and tablets, we do not really have many practical uses for watches. No matter how good the movement is in your watch, your phone is more accurate. The same can be said for second time zones. Even if you have a very accurate watch, your phone can do exactly the same thing much quicker. Not only this but the phone or computer will automatically adjust for daylight savings time. This would be an extremely complicated function on a watch.
Overall, the only real use for a GMT watch is if you’re a pilot. Even then, there are modern-day tools and implements which are better than a wristwatch. Therefore it’s quite obvious that we are wearing GMT watches for fashion purposes and because we like wearing them.
Why Do People Like GMT Watches?
People mostly like GMT watches because of advertisement and product placement. The main reason for the explosion in popularity of GMT is thanks to Rolex. Both the GMT master & the GMT master II are extremely popular watches that have far more demand than supply.
Not only this, but other brands have created inexpensive alternatives for under $500. Considering that a Rolex GMT has a list price of over $9000, this has made the GMT genre affordable for everyone who cannot pay this much.
In addition to this, the GMT is a classic style that has been around since the 1950s. You can’t really go wrong wearing a GMT. It will never be a peak fashion watch at the height of popularity, but neither will it ever be out of style.
Are GMT Dress Watches?
In modern-day, Yes. Originally GMT watches were made for pilots or any other kind of job which required access to knowing a second timezone. Although GMT watches were made to be useful and practical tools, the number of people wearing them are far greater than the number of pilots in the world.
This is mostly because stainless steel sports watches have become very popular and fashionable. Whilst people may have not worn dive watches, pilot watches or GMT watches 50 years ago. In the current era they are not really used for any of those purposes – and instead are used as fashion watches.
All in all, you certainly wouldn’t look out of place wearing a GMT in an office or a restaurant. They are a reasonably common daily wear across the western world.
How Much Does A GMT Watch Cost?
GMT watches have a wide variety of prices, which is entirely dependent on the brand you buy them from. Different watches are built to different standards and may use a cheap quartz movement, or an extremely complex and well-designed automatic movement.
At the lower end of GMT watches, there are some Chinese brands that make them for around $100. These aren’t quite as cheap as non-GMT watches given the slight added complexity of both the bezel and movement (4 hands).
The most expensive GMT watches will cost in excess of $40k. These watches are typically precious metal Rolexes made from either yellow or rose gold. A stainless steel Rolex GMT will cost you considerably less but is still well within the 5 figure bracket at current market rates.
Why Is Rolex GMT So Expensive?
There are many reasons why Rolex GMT’s are expensive. First of all, is the quality of the brand. Of course, Rolex may not be the absolute best in terms of making luxury watches, but they are certainly in the top few brands. Although some people do not like Rolex as a brand, they cannot deny it has great quality finishing and in-house movements.
Secondly is the supply and demand issue. This is actually such a big issue that it causes second-hand Rolex watches to cost more than brand new. The reason for this is that if you go into an authorized dealer and ask to buy a brand new GMT they will roll their eyes. The GMT master is so popular that there are long waitlists that may take several years to reach the top of.
Due to the limited production of Rolex GMT masters, this causes supply to be far lower than demand, boosting the second-hand prices. If for some reason people began to hate the Rolex GMT master design, you would quickly see the prices of second-hand models drop below the brand new prices. However, this is extremely unlikely to happen.
10 Best GMT Watches Under $500 (Alternatives To Rolex GMT Master)
Pagani Automatic
Pagani is a Chinese brand and offers hands down the cheapest GMT money can buy. Obviously, when you buy a Chinese-made, automatic watch, it’s always going to be hit or miss. This is mostly due to the movement, which in this Pagani is an ETA clone that was made in China. Of course, the materials are poorer quality than a Swiss automatic movement, although for less than $150, can you really complain about anything if you’re getting an automatic GMT for this price?
There are two color schemes, pictures is the Pagani version of a batman. Unfortunately, they do not offer this watch with a Pepsi bezel but do have a red and black variation.
Rotary Henley
Rotary offers a nice alternative to the Pepsi bezel GMT. This is a quartz watch that uses a Japanese movement. In fairness to Rotary, they have not tried to directly copy Rolex and instead have put their own spin on the GMT design. The hour indicators are an original shape, as well as not having a cyclops over the date, neither does the watch have any crown guards.
Overall, this watch is well under budget, but not fantastic value for money. You’re able to pick up some cheaper quartz GMT’s, or simply find another GMT which is more expensive but has more of its own style.
Mathey-Tissot
The Mathey-Tissot GMT has a very unique and vintage style that looks like something straight out of the 1980s. Using a two-tone metal on the crown, outer bezel, and bracelet, this is not a color combination you have really seen in around 40 years. Of course, the design is meant to look like this and is a modern twist on a classic design. The watch is Swiss-made, but uses a quartz movement.
Other than the bi-metal finish, the layout of the watch is very similar to a Rolex GMT including the case shape, cyclops and even the hands with the hour indicators. Whilst it’s not identical, it does look like a vintage Rolex.
Torgoen T9
Although the Torgoen T9 does not look like a typical GMT sports watch. It is simply a GMT watch with its own unique design. The T9 actually has more in common with the original Glycine airman than it does a Rolex GMT master. This is because the watch does not have a bezel, but instead displays the 24hour block around the outer dial. From an ergonomic perspective, this is actually a much more simple way to tell the time.
The Torgoen T9 comes in well under budget and uses a Swiss movement. Although the watch is not automatic, it is still great value for money. You will not find many other uniquely designed watches with Ronda movements for this price.
Alpina Startimer
Alpina are a classic Swiss brand that has been resurrected by the Japanese giant Citizen. The brand still very much sticks to its heritage and the Startimer is no different, using a quartz Swiss movement.
The overall design of the watch is very vintage, with no bezel being used. Instead of a rotating outer bezel, the watch has 24 hour time numbered around the outside of the dial in a classic Pepsi coloring. In terms of value for money, the Alpina is not too bad. Of course, this is not the cheapest watch ever, but it’s well under the budget of $500 with its own distinctive style.
Parnis (Fanmis)
Another alternative to the Pagani is the Fanmis GMT. This watch is pretty obvious with what it’s doing and is just meant to look as close as possible to a Rolex batman GMT. In terms of movement, the Fanmis GMT uses a Mingzhu 3804, which is a clone of the movement used in Citizen dive watches.
In terms of appearance, this is about as close as you will get to a Rolex GMT master. However, if you are stuck between choosing this or the Pagani. It is probably best to go with the Pagani as the movement is slightly better quality. With that being said, for the price, either way, you will be happy with your choice.
Victorinox
The Victorinox GMT has is a watch that is very well designed and innovative. Sticking to its brand principles, the brand which is most famous for producing Swiss army knives provides a solid thematic continuation as the watch hands look about as close to a SAK as possible.
Victorinox watches are very solid as you would expect. They use entry-level Swiss quartz movements and cannot really be faulted in their finishing. Their GMT is reasonably priced and uses the center inner dial to display the second timezone. This is a nice and unusual feature from the SAK brand.
Lum-Tec
Lum-Tec is a brand that is most famous for its high quality lume and visibility. The Lum-Tec GMT is no different as you will struggle to find another watch with anywhere near the lume power that this has.
Overall this watch is really not quite sure what it wants to be but is somewhat of a fashionable field watch. The case is very well finished to a high standard and has a domed sapphire crystal, meaning that you will have to worry about getting any scratches. The GMT function is displayed around the inner dial.
Invicta
The most polarising watch brand on the market has its own take on a GMT watch. Of course, by now you’ve probably already made your mind up about whether you love or hate Invicta. This watch will be no different than what you already know. Obviously, it is oversized and has a giant 48mm case.
If you are a fan of Invicta and looking for a GMT, this watch really is good value. It is far, far under the $500 budget and is one of the few modern Invicta pieces that use a Swiss movement. All in all, of course, if you hate the brand, it doesn’t matter what the price is, as you won’t be interested anyway. However, if you do like Invicta, this is a model you should certainly consider and is one of the best value GMT watches on the market.
Vostok Komandirskie
You probably couldn’t find a more Russian watch if you tried. The Komandirskie doesn’t look pretty, but it gets the job done. In all seriousness, this watch is really excellent value for money. The only other way you would find an automatic GMT watch for this price is if you want to buy a cheap Chinese brand.
This GMT model made by Vostok is built to last, as you would expect with a Russian watch. Unlike many of the other GMT watches, this has 200 meters water resistance and a 30-hour power reserve. This is not something which is astounding, but for less than $150, it really is quite a bargain.
