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Mechanical hand wound watches are good for those who do not want an automatic watch, but still want a vintage feel. Or simply those who are first entering the world of non-quartz watches for the first time. Whilst a hand-wind watch is a lot more effort to look after than a watch which uses a simple battery. For watch enthusiasts, this is time and energy well spent.
Whilst hand wound watches are certainly less convenient than a quartz watch – there are several advantages and preferences which are outlined below.
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The History Of Hand Wound Watches
Hand-wound watches have been around since the early 1500s. Compared to automatic watches this is an extremely long time. The first automatic model was released in 1923, created by legendary British inventor John Harwood. So there is a gigantic 400 year gap between hand wound and automatic watches.
Wristwatches have come a long way since 1505 and now there are many affordable manual wind watches. No longer are timepieces only for royals, the rich and nobility. The first hand wind chronograph was created in 1816 for French king Louis XVIII. Considering you can now get a piece that matches the complications of this watch for around $250, you can see watch development has come a long way. There are almost as many cheap mechanical watches as there are quartz models available in modern day. Whilst the best mechanical watches still cost an arm and a leg, you are easily able to find decent quality watches for less than $100.
How Do Hand Wound Watches Work?
Hand winding watches work by turning the crown and winding the mainspring of the watch. The mainspring is the energy source from which the watch gets its movement. Once tightly coiled, the mainspring slowly unwinds, which begins to power the movement. During this period of time, the kinetic energy is slowly released. On a visual level, this allows you to see the hands move around the dial of the watch and tell the time.
Hand wound watches differ from automatic watches in that they do not have a rotor. You cannot power a hand wound mechanical watch by moving your wrist. The only way of powering a hand wound watch is literally by winding it yourself.
Although this can be inconvenient. Due to the fairly large size and bulky nature of a rotor. You will find much more slimline designs in wind up watches compared to their automatic brothers.
How Do You Know If A Watch Is Fully Wound?
If your watch does not have a power reserve, then it is more of an art than a science of how much it needs to be wound. This is one of the main problems with wind up watches, if you are careless then you may end up damaging your watch.
With that being said, once you’re familiar with your watch, you will be able to feel exactly how much resistance the crown is giving you and when it’s time to stop winding. If you’re not used to having a hand wound watch, it’s first best to let your watch run out of energy and then gradually build up to a winding level that you’re comfortable with. This will keep you on the side of safety and make sure you don’t cause any unnecessary damage.
If you have a modern hand-wound watch, this will not be an issue. There are already safeguards in place to prevent this within the watch mechanism.
How Long Does A Hand Wound Watch Last?
In terms of how long does a watch last once it is fully wound. This really depends on the power reserve of the model. Typically, expensive brands generally have a much higher power reserve than cheaper brands. The higher end power reserves have a maximum storage of around 80 hours.
If you’re asking how long does a manual watch lasts in terms of its overall lifespan. Obviously, this is a lot longer, and is not really different from an automatic watch. If you buy an expensive timepiece, then you can expect the parts to last a while longer and also be worth servicing.
If you buy a cheap mechanical watch, depending on its specification, it may last a few years before it begins to lose or gain too much time. The watch will still “work” but not be too useful at timekeeping.
Overall, if you look after your watch and have it serviced every 3-5 years, it will last as long as you can bother to take care of it.
Why Do You Need A Hand-Wound Watch?
Simply put, you don’t. A quartz based watch will be far less hassle, more convenient, and be more accurate than any hand wound mechanical watch you can buy.
So from a logical perspective, there is absolutely no reason to buy something which is “second best”.
However, even in modern day, people still use old technology. This is mostly due to the fact there is some nostalgic value, or people appreciate how older things work. Particularly in the world of wristwatches, there is still a very healthy market for vintage timepieces and watches that have been designed to look older than they actually are.
The only drawback to hand wound watches is that new models are actually pretty difficult to get hold of. Since automatic watches are so much more popular, hand wound watches have taken a backseat. Therefore we have listed the best possible watches from each brand that actually makes manual models. Most brands have switched over to 100% automatic production since they are far more desirable.
How Do Hand Wound Watches Differ From Automatic Watches?
Hand wound watches are exactly as described. You must wind the crown to create tension in the main spring. This differs to an automatic watch which is powered by the movement of your arm and wrist. This movement creates kinetic energy in a rotor which spins and also creates tension in the main spring.
The less obvious difference between the two movements is that hand wound watches are almost always thinner than automatics. Since a hand wound watch does not contain a rotor, the movement can fit in to a smaller case. The best example of this is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo – which is a record breaking 1.8mm thick.
Are Hand Wound Watches Accurate?
Hand wound watches are just as accurate as automatic watches – although it all really depends on the movement quality. For example, you’d expect much more accurate time from a hand wound ETA movement in a Hamilton Khaki (featured below) when compared to a Chinese off-brand movement.
Quartz movements are a lot more accurate than hand wound mechanical movements, but this really goes without saying.
Overall, the accuracy of hand wound watches varies greatly from company to company. Swiss movements lead the way, followed by solid Japanese manufacturers such as Epson.
The Best Hand Wound Watches
Timex Marlin
The Marlin looks like it has come straight out of a time machine from the 1960s. Everything from the dial, to the movement to the case size, is all traditional. The watch is 32mm and only 10mm thick, which immediately sets it apart from modern day loud, garish and oversized watches. If you do not like modern watches at all, the Marlin is just about as throwback as you can get without actually having a vintage watch.
Of course, this model is more expensive than various fashion timepieces, but you’re getting a reputable movement from a reputable brand. The Timex Marlin is certainly nothing fantastic, but it does offer a glimpse of the past for a reasonable price. It’s neither cheap nor overpriced.
Invicta
If you know about watches, then you will likely be very surprised to see an Invicta watch here. The Invicta brand are well known for making controversially oversized and extremely ostentatious timepieces – not hand wound watches with simple designs.
In fairness, Invicta have put their own modern twist on a hand wound mechanical watch. This model has a skeleton dial and exhibition caseback, which is not at all common for anything that you need to wind by hand.
Overall though, it isn’t too well known that Invicta watches offer incredible value for money. Granted, if you did buy a quartz piece at the MSRP of $600, you are entitled to feel hard done by. However, you can find Invicta watches for less than $100 on Amazon extremely easily. This model is well worth the money and truly a new unique take on an old style of wristwatch.
Luch
A watch with all the hallmarks of the former Soviet Union. Luch is a brand that makes a single hand watch. As you can see, due to the minute indicators between each hour, it is actually pretty easy to tell the time, despite this watch having such a unique design. Even if you are to find another brand that uses a similar movement, it will not quite be the same as this. Luch watches are made in Belarus of all places, which is not really a country known for watchmaking, or any sort of international business.
In terms of price, Luch is pretty good value for money. You are very unlikely to find another mechanical hand wound watch in this style, even if you do, good luck with getting a price in the same ballpark. This watch is not for everyone, but if you’re a fan of the design it is well worth a try.
Vostok Komandirskie
Given that the Vostok Komandirskie is well under $100, this is well worth every dollar spent. In general, you are going to struggle to find any mechanical hand wound watch that isn’t Chinese for this price. Your only real options are both China and Russia for any kind of hand wind model within this price bracket.
Vostok are a brand that will not let you down. Whilst their movements aren’t the most accurate in the world, they will never just decide to break. This is a Russian brand that is truly built to last. The water resistance isn’t great on this model, but you will have no problem submerging it in a swimming pool. This is by far the most rugged hand wound watch you can buy.
Hamilton
Given that Hamilton is an American brand that makes its watches in Switzerland, the price for their mechanical watches is really not too bad. As the company specializes in field watches, this is pretty much your only shot at a hand wound field watch, or at least one that is Swiss made.
Once again, this is another brand that uses ETA movements, so there are no concerns about the quality of the mechanics. If this watch is out of your price range and you are looking for a similarly rugged watch for a cheaper price, my recommendation would be the Vostok Komandirskie. The watch will not be as accurate as the Hamilton, but it will last you a very long time.
Sugess Chronograph
Sugess is a Chinese brand that is probably best known for making budget tourbillon watches. This particular model is more or less the cheapest hand wound chronograph you can find. It is pretty good value for money, but the fact is not many brands even attempt making non-automatic chronographs. Yes, they do exist at the higher end of watchmaking, but under $500 is really quite a dead space for hand wind chronographs.
The watch uses a Seagull ST1901 which is one of the most reliable chronograph movements that the company makes. It comes with a 40 hour power reserve and is generally thought of as one of the best value, low budget mechanical movements to come out of China.
Junghans Max Bill
At the very top level of affordability is the Junghans Max Bill. In general, depending on the design and specification of the watch, this will cost in the region of $400-$800.
Junghans create bauhaus design watches with very basic dials. Their focus is more on simplicity and elegance than trying to impress anyone with anything flamboyant or overly creative. If the dial is simple, the movement is anything but. Junghans use top level ETA movements, so you can always rely on them for both accuracy and reliability.
Of course, Junghans watches are a lot more expensive than some of the budget brands. With that being said, even though they are a lot more pricey, they are still good value for money given the specification of the watches made.
