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An affordable automatic chronograph is somewhat of an oxymoron. On the whole, you will have to pick one or the other. Automatic watches are not particularly expensive and can be picked up for under $100. Chronograph watches are not particularly expensive either – and can be picked up for even less money. However, when combined, automatic chronograph watches can get very expensive.
The reason why automatic chronograph watches are expensive is due to the complexity of the movement. A quartz module can be made very cheaply and there is not a massive difference in the cost of production between a standard quartz movement and a quartz chronograph. However, the difference in complexity between a standard mechanical watch and an automatic chronograph is huge.
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Why Should You Buy An Automatic Chronograph?
There is no real logical reason to buy an automatic chronograph watch. A quartz chronograph does the same job and is more accurate for around 5 times cheaper. Not only this, but your phone likely has a stopwatch that is free for you to use and is also more accurate than both a quartz or an automatic watch.
The only real reason is that you appreciate the work and effort that has been put into making a watch this complicated and enjoy wearing it. There is a historical significance behind the use of chronographs on automatic watches. Most famously an Omega Speedmaster chronograph was used to time a crucial engine burn on Apollo 13 when the computer systems had failed. Whilst we logically know as humans that technology helps us on many different levels, we do feel reassured by having something with visible moving parts and gears.
Why Are Automatic Chronograph Watches So Expensive?
When compared with a regular automatic watch, an automatic chronograph uses two methods of telling the time at once. It also manages to fit this movement into a case the same size as a regular watch and has the ability to be reset with the push of a single button.
The same can be said when comparing other complications on automatic watches. A quartz moonphase watch costs a lot less than an automatic moonphase. Once again, a moonphase is yet another complication to be tracked alongside the standard procedure of tracking time.
In short, this is a complicated process that requires a lot more engineering, parts, labor and design. For reference, you can pick up a quartz chronograph from a reputable brand for around $150-$250. An automatic chronograph made by a reputable watchmaker will start at around $700 and increase from here.
Most Affordable Automatic Chronograph Watches For Men
Victorinox AirBoss
The Victorinox Airboss is one of the cheapest automatic chronograph watches for men that you can buy. There are Chinese brands that make cheap automatic chronograph watches, but the quality of these pieces is very questionable. As the Airboss is a Swiss made watch, you do not have to give a second thought to the standard of production.
Not only this, but the Victorinox model uses a Valjoux 7750, which is widely regarded as one of the best automatic chronograph movements for entry-level luxury watches. This movement is used in far more expensive watches such as the Hamilton Below Zero chronograph which sells for 2-3x the price of this Victorinox watch.
Tissot T-Race
Certainly a uniquely designed watch, the Tissot T-Race is a model that lends itself more towards a casual setting than a formal one. You can see where the ideas of this watch have come from with the bezel being made to look like a tyre, whilst the caseback of the watch has steel spokes you would find on a wheel.
This is really a good quality racing-style watch that is a great (and cheaper) alternative to many of the Tag Heuer models such as the F1 series. It should also be noted that this particular version of the T-Race is better value for money than the other iterations since it uses a Valjoux 7750. Other T-Race watches have a different subdial layout and use a slightly inferior ETA chronograph.
Overall, this Swiss made automatic sports watch is one of the better value for money chronographs you will find.
Revue Thommen
Yet another watch making use of the Valjoux 7750 is the Revue Thommen Airspeed. This watch is stainless steel sports model with a silicon strap – a style which is very popular.
As you can see, the bezel is somewhat in the style of a Breitling Aerospace, whilst the remainder of the watch uses a professional dial with a sports strap. This combination is very unusual and won’t suit everyone, but will have its admirers.
There are cheaper watches that use Valjoux 7750, so in terms of specifications, you can get better value for money. However, this watch does have its own unique style, so must be included.
Bulova Gemini
Although much of Bulova’s production has now been outsourced to the far east, their high end watches are still manufactured in Switzerland. The best days of the original American brand are clearly behind them, with Bulova once competing with Omega for NASA contracts, now mass-producing watches with Japanese quartz movements.
However, the main selling point of the Gemini is its clear value. Priced at under $800, this is one of the true entry level automatic chronograph watches there is. Lastly, it must be noted that if you are not a fan of rose gold men’s watches, the Gemini is also available in 2-3 other color schemes.
Mido Multifort
There are quite a few variations of the Mido Multifort available, with this particular model being one of the cheapest. Mido is often an overlooked brand in the west, but produces some decently high specification watches for prices that are very solid when compared to rival companies.
To be blunt, there is nothing particularly spectacular, original or charming about the design of this watch. It is simply a stainless steel automatic chronograph with a Swiss movement. Mido have selected to go for two larger subdials rather than 3 and used a date window instead. This is at least some change from the regular layout we know and expect from chronograph watches.
Like all Mido timepieces, this one is also very good value for money and should certainly be considered if you’re looking for a sub $1000 chronograph.
Raymond Weil Parsifal
The Raymond Weil Parsifal is the most iconic and instantly recognizable watch within the companies catalog. The distinct design features no real bezel and a plain dial with roman numerals. This is finished off by a cabochon crown, protected by two sturdy guards.
In summary, this is certainly not a modern watch. There is nothing about the Parsifal which is on-trend or in line with modern day favorites such as Richard Mille or Rolex Submariners. To put it bluntly, the Parsifal is somewhat of an old fashioned watch that is meant to be subtle, yet stylish. In terms of value for money, the Parsifal is not too bad, but not great either. In all honesty, it is best to wait for a sale or negotiate a discount when buying a brand such as Raymond Weil.
Alpina Startimer
Using the fairly rare and high spec La Joux-Perret movement, the automatic Alpina Startimer is not a common look for a chronograph watch. The fact that it uses a single monopusher rather than the typical 2 button start/stop/reset combination differentiates it from the competition.
Despite having somewhat of an oversized and angular case that measures 42mm, the Startimer combines this modern sizing with a very vintage look. Overall, the appearance of the watch would suggest it was made in the 1970s rather than the 2nd decade of the 21st century.
This is fairly expensive compared to other chronographs on the list, but is still one of the cheaper automatic models you can buy. In short, this is not going to be a watch that turns the heads of regular people, but will certainly be appreciated by anyone who knows anything about watches.
