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It wasn’t until 1927 when Rolex created the original Oyster. Prior to this, there had not been a waterproof watch ever created. The oyster was not a dive watch, but was given to a swimmer to demonstrate that the watch could be worn whilst fully submerged in water and still work.
The first dive watch was created in 1936 by Panerai and was made to be used by the Italian navy. The navy required a watch which could go to great depths and be visible underwater. This presented 2 challenges for Panerai since nobody had created a watch that could go so far below the surface, neither was there an existing way to make dials visible in complete darkness.
However, Panerai acheived this feat and made a massive 47mm case watch called the Radiomir. The numbers on the dial and hands were illuminated by radium, hence the watches name. Radium is a radioactive chemical which allows the numbers to be visible in darkness.
Radium has not been used on divers watches since the 1960s since less dangerous alternatives have been found. Whilst radium is not as harmful as some people believe, if you ingest the chemical or breath it in to your lungs, it’s likely you will get a lot of medical complications. Modern divers watches instead use chemical compounds such as zinc sulfide which are not radioactive and can be handled by humans much more safely.
Since 1936 divers watches have come a long way and have been long overtaken by dive computer watches. These newer watches allow many more features and do not rely on an automatic movement. Traditional divers watches have surprisingly increased in popularity because of their look, not their practicality.
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Why Are Dive Watches So Popular?
Dive watch popularity mostly owes its success to a single model of watch – the Rolex Submariner. Without this iconic watch, it’s likely that no where near as many people would wear this style. Whilst there are popular brands that produce dive watches such as Panerai, Blancpain and Omega. None of them are as iconic as the submariner.
The average consumer that does not buy luxury watches also produces a high demand for dive watches. This is why we have seen brands such as Citizen, Seiko and Hugo Boss all produce divers watches. In more recent years there have been brands such as Invicta and Parnis try to copy the design of the submariner very closely to produce a dive watch style for the lowest price possible.
In short, dive watches are popular due to fashionable trends. There is lots of demand for dive style watches at all price levels. This demand has been met by many brands throwing their hat in the ring and trying to develop stylish dive watches for the fashion market.
What Are Dive Watches Used For?
Before the use of digital and computerised watches. Dive watches were actually used for diving. Waterproof watches for swimming were first made in the 1920’s followed by divers watches in the 1930’s. Before this breakthrough you would not be able to wear your watch underwater.
In the modern technological age there are now 2 types of divers watch. The first are mostly used as fashion pieces as people like the style. The most typical example of this are both Rolex Submariners and Panerai Radiomir watches. These two brands both produce luxury “divers” watches, although you will very rarely see them used underwater. In fact you are much more likely to see them being worn in a restaurant or nightclub.
“Real” divers watches are still used for diving. These are digital watches which can track many more things than a standard automatic movement. Time, depth, temperature and other custom displays can all be shown on a backlit display. Mechanical watches simply cannot compete on a practical level compared to dive computers.
Why Are Dive Watches So Big?
Divers watches are often bigger than normal watches since they need to be visible underwater where there is a lot less sunlight. At least this was true when divers actually wore mechanical divers watches. However, even if you look at modern day computer dive watches such as Suunto models, they all still have very large screens.
Fashion dive watches have maintained the getting larger trend. Almost all fashion watch dials have become bigger and bigger over recent years. Dive watches are no different. As an example of this, the original Rolex Oyster dial was under 30mm. A modern day Rolex Submariner is 40mm.
Are Dive Watches Expensive?
This depends on the brand and the model. If you want to compare an entry level divers watch to an entry level fashion watch, the dive watch will be more expensive.
This should go without saying as dive watches require extra research and development, as well as higher standards of production. Features such as screw down crowns and pressure resistance are 100% necessary for divers watches. These features simply aren’t needed on fashion watches, so costs can be cut back a little.
At the higher end of watches and luxury watches in general. Divers watches are no more expensive than any other watch. Firstly this is because a dive watch is not that complicated compared to something such as making a Tourbillon or perpetual calender. Secondly, this is because nobody is wearing a solid 18k gold watch to go diving in the sea. Luxury watches are often made of very fine materials such as gold or platinum. There may be a watch made in this dive style, but it will certainly not be used for diving.
Why Are Dive Watches Red & Blue?
Strangley enough, most colors are invisible when you are underwater. Whilst they don’t actually disappear, there is not enough visible light showing your eyes what the color is. The standard red/blue divided bezel was mostly used for divers to keep track of their oxygen underwater, as well as decompressions.
If you are to align your bezel at the start of the dive. You will be able to sync the break in color with the time that you need to start ascending. You will now be able to see when the minute hand lines up with the red/blue crossover, you don’t have too much oxygen left and need to come back above water.
Decompression sickness is caused by coming back up to the surface too quickly when you have been underwater at great depths. Whilst modern dive computer watches can do this for you, there wasn’t any other way other than timing this yourself.
The main reason in modern day is that it simply looks nice. There are a variety of dive watches with different color mixtures. The most common are Red/Blue (often referred to as pepsi), Blue/Black, Black, Blue, Green & Orange. Some smaller fashion brands will make all kinds of colors to appeal to different types of people.
Dive Watches By Brand – Luxury & Affordable
Citizen
Best known for their Eco-Drive watches, Citizen also make a very solid range of divers watches with both quartz and automatic movements. This allows you to choose from a varying price range with the Aqualand towards the top end and some entry level divers watches costing under $200 at the bottom.
One thing you can be sure of when buying a Citizen is accuracy and reliability. The Japanese brand, like Seiko, is known for not letting customers down and making watches which last for a very long time. Citizen have been making quartz watches since the industry began and won’t be stopping any time soon.
Check The Price Of Citizen Dive Watches On Amazon
Invicta
The invicta pro diver series if nothing else offers great value for money. You can clearly see that they’ve unashamedly taken inspiration from the Rolex Submariner with their dial and bezel design.
Depending on your criteria and budget you are able to select from either quartz or automatic movements. The automatic movement is nothing special, but solid enough. Really if you are looking for the best value for money from a dive watch, you cannot go wrong with Invicta. Although the brand is usually either loved or hated by anyone that knows about watches, they will not be able to deny the value for money from the Invicta dive series.
Check The Price Of Invicta Dive Watches On Amazon
Seiko
Seiko is another Japanese powerhouse brand which makes all kinds of watches. Their divers range starts fairly budget and becomes more expensive as you add more features.
For a singular brand, Seiko really offers a lot of different choices depending on which kind of dive watch you want. Not only do they offer quartz or automatic, they have various dials and models varying in price. Well known models include the Sea Urchin, Sea monster as well as a massive variety within the Prospex (professional specifications) range.
Whilst Seiko is not the cheapest dive watch manufacturer. They certainly offer a great selection and really good value for money. They are not a budget dive watch but are not expensive either.
Check The Price Of Seiko Dive Watches On Amazon
Rolex
Not too much can be mentioned that you won’t already know about Rolex dive watches. The submariner is the iconic posterboy for modern day divers models. The Rolex brand is the most recognisable watch brand in the world and truly makes luxury and reliable watches.
Their customer service and general mechanical servicing of watches is second to none. Without this brand making the submariner, it would be doubtful that there would be much of a market for divers watches at all.
Due to supply and demand of Submariners, you’re going to pay a hefty price if you want to get your hands on one. With that being said, like all luxury watches, the price will fluctuate over time. If you are willing to wait long enough you could possibly get your hands on a bargain, however, you could be waiting a very long time.
Check The Price Of Rolex Dive Watches On Amazon
Panerai
As mentioned earlier in the article, Panerai made the first divers watch in 1936 (Radiomir). These days your best bet would be to buy something from the Panerai submersible range which has a 3 day power reserve and can withstand water pressure up to 100 meters.
If you compare modern day Panerai designs with those made over 85 years ago, you will see that not much has changed. They still stick to their oversized cases with their unique neither circular nor square shape. The watches are obviously extremely well lumed and use mostly in house movements. In terms of value for money as a luxury watch, Panerai are somewhat out of favour at the moment so can be picked up more cheaply than other brands such as Rolex.
Check The Price Of Panerai Dive Watches On Amazon
Nautica
Nautica was originally a clothing brand and has not been producing watches for anywhere near as long as its competitors on this list.
With that being said, its brand name was perfectly poised to make dive watches due to its nautical background. Nautica watches are mostly just an entry level fashion brand with quartz movements. There is nothing wrong with Japanese quartz movements, as they are very reliable and accurate.
Overall you will get decent value for money from Nautica’s dive watch range. They produce good quality watches for low prices.
Check The Price Of Nautica Dive Watches On Amazon
Gucci
Gucci are a brand which are fairly new to making dive watches. Whilst they are best known for their clothes and handbags, Gucci watches are best described as high end fashion watches, or entry level luxury watches.
Their dive watches are powered by Swiss quartz so are certainly not on the level of Omega, Rolex or Panerai. With that being said, they are significantly cheaper and have their own unique style. Gucci has taken the shape of a classic divers watch, but added their own design. If you are a fan of the brand you will recognise the usual animal prints on the dial such as bees or snakes. Whilst this isn’t for everyone, if you are a fan of the Gucci brand, their dive range are some of the more solid models.
You can find a full review of the Gucci Dive watch model YA136301 here.