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The open heart watch design is still relatively new to watchmaking. Skeleton watches first appeared in the 1960s, but it wasn’t until a decade later when we first began to see the first open heart styles. This design of watch is popular because you are still able to see the mechanical movement of a watch, without having an overly loud skeleton design.
Not only this but unless you have an expensive tourbillon watch, the only part of the watch you can see move is the balance wheel anyway. So based on this logic, it makes sense to have a small window to watch this component. Other parts within a watch do move, but these are very slow and minor movements that cannot be seen very well by the human eye.
There is no doubt about it that open heart watches (just like any other specific design) are a gimmick. This does not make them inherently good or bad but does make them attractive or unattractive depending on your perspective.
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What Is An Open Heart Automatic Watch?
An automatic open heart watch is simply an automatic watch that shows some part of the movement through a hole in the dial. Automatic watches are the most popular form of mechanical watches, meaning they do not need batteries to run. Instead, they use the power of motion from your wrist and arm which causes the rotor to rotate within the case of the watch.
This movement is then stored in a coil and released over a period of time. Instead of having a full skeleton dial, or a completely opaque dial, an open heart watch displays the balance wheel which can be seen moving through a small hole. Open heart watches can have solid case backs or exhibition skeleton displays – this is not a determining factor in an open heart watch design.
In short, open heart watches are simply standard mechanical models which offer a small window to view the movement.
Are Open Heart Watches Any Good?
This depends on the quality of the brand that has made each watch. There are good automatic watches and bad automatic watches depending on who made the watch and/or movement. The fact that a watch is using an open heart design doesn’t make it good or bad without knowing any other information. Of course, some people love open heart designs, whereas other people dislike them – but this doesn’t make a watch good or bad.
Instead, you must look towards which movement a watch is using and make an educated decision on whether this is worth the price or not. Thankfully this has been done for you already in the lists below which display both budget and expensive open heart watches. You will find that some brands offer very good value for money, whereas others are very average.
Unfortunately in recent years, poor quality Chinese brands have begun to list open heart watches as tourbillons. This is a pretty ridiculous and misleading trend. To learn more about tourbillon watches, click here.
The 8 Best Open Heart Watches Under $500
Orient – Sun & Moon
The Orient Sun & Moon automatic open heart watch is a lot louder than your typical model from the brand. Usually, Orient makes dress watches that are a little more subtle and not as flamboyant. This watch is anything but subtle, using two tone stainless steel and rose gold for both the case and bracelet.
It should be noted that this watch uses an AM/PM indicator which is displayed by the sun and moon – this is not a moonphase complication which are a lot more difficult to manufacture.
In terms of value for money, this watch is somewhat expensive compared to other Orient models without open heart dials. You will find significantly cheaper watches within the brand such as the Bambino.
Bulova – Sutton
A very masculine looking watch, the Bulova open heart is a watch that makes good use of its 41mm stainless steel case which is thicker than the standard dress watch you will see from other brands. The time can be viewed in the traditional manner, or by using the two subdials which show both 24 hour time and minutes.
This is one of the few open heart models that have the ability of hacking – meaning you can stop the seconds hand by simply pulling the crown outwards. Made in Japan, this is not up to the standard of the Bulova watches which were made in the 1970s, but the price has been lowered to match this. In short, this is solid value for the money spent.
Tissot – Tradition
Tissot is well known for being a prestigious, yet very affordable Swiss brand. Unlike other Swiss watchmakers, Tissot have watches that most people can buy without having a gigantic budget. In addition to this, they are still of great quality and use the same movements as other luxury brands such as Frederique Constant and Raymond Weil.
This particular traditional model makes use of the classic ETA powermatic 80 movement, which means the watch has a massive 80 hour power reserve. This is ideal if you are new to automatic watches and do not want to wear your watch every day.
Seiko – Presage
The Seiko Presage series is a big step up in both price and quality from the budget range of Seiko 5 watches. Although they use a similar movement from the 4R3x series, the Presage has a 40 hour power reserve and is in a much more professional and well finished case. In addition to this, all Presage models use sapphire crystal ensuring the watch is further protected from scratches.
Overall, pretty much any Seiko you buy is going to be great value for money.
Timex – Waterbury
Making use of a very simplistic dial, the Timex Waterbury is one of the most low-key open heart watches you can buy. Considering open heart watches are usually thought of as over the top and loud, the Waterbury is certainly a model that could change your opinion.
There isn’t really too much to say about it other than this, it is just so simple. Timex uses a solid Japanese movement that is not outstanding but gets the job done. It is also one of the cheapest open heart watches you can buy and is very good value for money.
Zeppelin
Striking a nice balance between a traditional pilots watch and a modern open heart watch, the Zeppelin makes use of a masculine 40mm case size, which is made to look a little bigger due to the open dial.
A rather unique looking watch, the Zeppelin model also makes use of a subdial that displays the seconds, rather than having a traditional 3 hand movement. This is a watch that is not really a seller on technical specifications, but the overall visual design. In fairness, it does its job well and is priced reasonably for what you get.
Ingersoll – Regent
This is the epitome of budget open heart watches. The Ingersoll regent is unashamedly loud and has a very large 47mm case size.
As you can see, there is quite a lot going on with this watch. It has a standard crown, but both pushers which alter the functions on the subdials are placed on the left hand side of the watch, which doesn’t make much logical sense but is clearly for design purposes. There is also a large double date window placed just below the 12 o’clock position.
In summary, this is not a high specification watch but is priced very fairly.
Invicta – Pro-Diver
Quite simply the cheapest open heart watch you can buy, the Invicta pro-diver is the best value for money open heart watch on the internet. Whilst you can get cheap Chinese watches that are less expensive, this is certainly several leagues above them all.
Many people have criticized Invicta for making bad fashion watches, but this is simply not true. Whilst you may not like the design of Invicta, this pro diver uses an NH35 movement – which is a staple within the Seiko brand. There is no doubt then about the accuracy or reliability of this watch.
Not to mention, this is a legitimate divers watch and can be used up to 200 meters below water if required. For under $150, this is a real steal.
The Best 4 Open Heart Watches Over $500
Frederique Constant – Moonphase
One of the few automatic open heart watches that also has a moonphase complication. Frederique Constant uses their very traditional white textured dial alongside contrasting black roman numerals. Another complication you may not notice at first is the 4th hand used on the dial which is used to tell you the date of the month around the outside of the dial.
This is one of the more expensive open heart watches on offer, although mechanical moonphase is a difficult complication to produce. The watch walks a fine line between smart and casual with its sophisticated numbering and dial layout, contrasted with its gold case and open heart face.
Hamilton – Ventura
Made famous by Elvis in Blue Hawaii, as well as being worn by Will Smith during Men in Black, the Hamilton Ventura is a watch that has cemented itself in recent history. Part of the appeal is obviously the very unusual case shape which really cannot be compared to any other design on the market.
The American brand makes all of their watches in Switzerland and uses ETA movements. Once again, this is not a budget watch or something where you will get a great deal. It is however a massively unique watch from a prestigious company. Whether it is worth the money will be based on your own budget and what you think of the overall design.
Rado – Centrix
Rado are a brand best known for their hypoallergenic, high specification ceramic watches, the Centrix is no different. If you are someone who regularly scratches their watch on accident, the Centrix is ideal. By combining a sapphire crystal glass with a ceramic bracelet, this is going to be very difficult to damage and will last you a very long time.
A partially skeletonized dial makes the Rado centrix stand out from the rest of the competition alongside its very unusual ceramic and rose gold color combination. Rado are a truly underrated luxury brand and should be considered by anyone who is sick of stainless steel watches and would like something different.
Raymond Weil – Freelancer
The Raymond Weil open heart Freelancer is somewhat of a loud and more flamboyant version of a sensible dress watch. You will typically find that the Freelancer series make watches that are suitable for the office environment and aimed towards the young professional. This watch is no different, but obviously displays a large bridge and the balance wheel at the 6 o’clock position.
The family owned company uses a Sellita ST-20001, which is very solid and around the same level as a mid-level ETA movement. A fairly expensive watch given the specifications, but like many other top brands, you’re always going to pay more for a Swiss-made luxury watch.
